SETTING KARB

Setting Karburator cara mudah
Adjusting: The airscrew requires a flathead screwdriver for adjustments. Start by turning the screw clockwise all the way in until it reaches its closed position. A good rule of thumb is to go all the way in and then back it out one and a half turns. From there, turn it in or out until your bike feels like it has just the right amount of snap on the bottom end. The minimum adjustment is generally about one full turn out, and the maximum that you'll ever want to go is about two and a half turns out. If you're anywhere out of that range, look at changing the size of the pilot jet.

kalau enjin cepat panas tu skrew angin xcukup bukak bnyk sangat..aku dulu angin main pulas-pulas ...hangat wooo...terlalu rich lean kot org putih kata...

camni:
*kalo setting carb lean=senang nk hidup waktu sejuk (terutama waktu pagi)..tetapi time running boleh menyebabkan kerosakan pada enjin kerana suhu combustion chamber yg terlampau panas(valve bengkok/piston berlubang/PV cair@patah/motor jem panas)
*kalo setting carb rich= agak sukar nk hidup waktu sejuk(sebab myk lebih n plug masih sejuk-pembakaran kurg sempurna)...tp kalau terlalu rich plug juga cepat "kong"(sebab plug ada heat range khas utk membolehkan fungsi self-cleaning pd elektrod plug)...(combustion chamber pun kotor@performance drop)...
**jadi kene carik setting yg balance antara dua tersebut...


jarum lbh baik jgn adjust lgsg...letak kt takuk tgh je klip jarum tu....

plug perang dh cukup bagus lar tu...lbh2 nnt minyak kuat + bwk slow blh sbbkan plug cpt kong..
melainkan nk setting jln jauh/ men highway, mmg kene bg jd coklat gelap skit...

ni setting yg biase aku lalui lar...lain org lain skill...
ada org setting men pulas2 minyak smpai nk pecah enjin, pastu tgk plug..
ada org setting try set kt jln, kalo rasa tak cun, baru setting blk..

tmpt aku punya setting, try bwk,tarik gear 1,2,3 pastu mati enjin,tgk plug...
nk set tgk plug ni lbh baik pakai plug yg lama, biar ada carbon skit2...
plug baru nnt ssh plak nk tgk die punya color..

tgk kt plug...
-kalo semua putih = pilot kecik, menjet kecik
-kalo tgh putih, tepi2 hitam = menjet kecik, pilot besar
-kalo tgk tgh hitam, tepi2 putih = menjet besar, pilot kecik

-kalo tgh coklat tp tepi putih = menjet dh cun, pilot kasi up skit
-kalo tepi coklat tp tgh hitam = pilot dh cun, menjet kene kecikkan

-kalo plug dh coklat cun tp mcm ada kelabu2 skit = 2T kurang

lain bengkel, lain cara...yg penting, hasil akhir, dpt setting yg cun....


Aku ader satu cara setting carb yg lain dari semua,
biasanya aku setting untuk carb Uma racing...
caranya sangat senang bagi mereka yg tak tau
nak set carb jenis powerjet nih,
first cari moto yg sama pakai carb tu,
start dan rem biar sama bunyi ngan moto kita.
tune sampai betul2 sama.
aku tak gerenti 100% jadi,
tapi comform bole jalan....

-step dia::

1) tinggikan timing dalam 3k (agak-agak)
2) pusing skru angin tutup sampai enjin semput-semput nak mati
3) bukak skru angin perlahan-lahan sampai rpm naik maksimum (meraung paling tinggi masa bukakn skru angin tuh)
4)ejas timing bagi stended..
5)test...
6)check plug
7)kalau ok..berjaya
8)kalau plug itam sangat atau putih sangat cuba rujuk dekat link dalam page1 apa yang kene buat


*kalo setting carb lean=senang nk hidup waktu sejuk (terutama waktu pagi)..tetapi time running boleh menyebabkan kerosakan pada enjin kerana suhu combustion chamber yg terlampau panas(valve bengkok/piston berlubang/PV cair@patah/motor jem panas)

4 stroke memang cepat panas dan lambat sejuk..
lagi panas lagi sedap..
cuma kalau panas sebab setting lean memang jadi seperti yg dinyatakan di atas...


x kalau kita bukak skru ejas angin nanti timing akan naik lepastu kalau bukak lagi sampai satu tahap timing akan turun kembali dan semput-semput...itu kalau pilot jet sesuai....tapi kalau pilotjet tak cukup besar pusing sampai skru angin tercabut pun timing takkan turun semula...

-katakan kita mula set dengan pilot saiz #20.0....dari skru setting angin tutup habis..kita bukak pelan-pelan dan rpm akan naik dengan sendiri....tapi bila dah bukak habis skru setting pun still xdapat lawas (akan dengar dekat ekjoz letup-petup halus)....jadi sebab pilot xcukup besar untuk membenarkan angin masuk dalam takung carb untuk tolak minyak masuk melalui ruang-vakum...jadi minyak xsampai...

-kalau pilot terlebih besar pulak akan jadi bila dah tutup trottle tapi RPM lambat turun....sebab::minyak still masuk dalam ruang pembakaran melalui lubang vakum pilot jet... (pilot jet=bypass slide carb)


-jumlah udara yang masuk dimalarkan/ditetapkan...dan kita perlu melaraskan jumlah minyak untuk mencapai pembakaran yg sempurna....jika pilot jet kecik...kita perlu open screw dengan besar(bukak abis) untuk mencapai pembakaran yang sempurna...sebaliknya jika pilot besar...kita bukak sikit je fuel screw pun dah memadai untuk mencapai pembakaran yg sempurna....

-katakan pilot jet terlalu kecil...kita dah bukak abis screw..tapi pembakaran belum sempurna....so kita perlu upkan pilot

kes pilot ngam>>dgn "fast-idle@1800" cube bro tutup skru angin sampai habis...and then bro bukak skru tu pelan2 timing akan naik tinggi maksimum contohnya@2700rpm betul x???bila sampai tahap tu dah kira ngam....tapi katakan kita gatal tangan bukak lagi skru tu beberapa pusingan..idle yang dah naik tadi akan jatuh semula ke tahap contoh@1600rpm dan akan dengar dekat ekjoz semput2(tuss tuss tuss)

kes pilot kecik>>dgn fast idle yang sama@1800rpm tutup skru angin sampai habis....and then bukak skru tu pelan2 timing akan naik...tapi masalahnya dah bukak sampai habis pun even cabut skru tu pun timing cuma naik tinggi sikit jer contoh@2300rpm jer...(skru jadi kurang sensitif pada perubahan)

kes pilot besar>>dgn fast idle yang sama@1800rpm tutup skru angin sampai habis...and then bukak skru tu pelan2 timing akan naik...tapi masalanya baru bukak 0.6 pusingan timing dah naik maksimum ke contoh@2700rpm...dan even terbukak lebih sikit 0.65-0.7 pusingan timing akan terus jatuh mendadak dan semput (skru jadi super-sensitif pada perubahan)


Saiz Carb

lagenda : Mikuni VM17
kriss : Keihin 18mm
wave125 : Keihin 18mm (lain model dgn kriss)
ex5/wave100 : Keihin 16mm/17mm (xpasti)
shogun : Keihin 18mm (dgn TPS)
135LC : Mikuni 22mm (dgn TPS+accelerator pump)
125z : Mikuni 24mm
rxz : Mikuni 26mm
moskito : Keihin CV24mm
gtr : Keihin CV24mm
vs125/150 : Mikuni CV26mm
ego/nuvo : Mikuni CV26mm
jaguh : Mikuni CV28mm
fx125/belang : Mikuni CV26mm
fxr : Mikuni CV29mm
kips : Keihin PE28mm / Keihin PWL28mm
nsr : Keihin PE28mm
tzm : Mikuni 30mm
txr : Mikuni VM26SS 26mm

p/s:maybe ada beberapa carb yg kurang tepat jenamanya 


Saiz mainjet & pilotjet std carb

Main jet Pilot jet
TZM : 155 35
RXZ : 210 & 195 22.5
125Z :
135LC : 105 22.5
Lagenda : 105 17.5
Wave125 : 78 35
EX5 : 75 42
DREAM : 72 40
Kriss110 : 82 45
TS125 : 85 27.5
Kips : 132 45
TXR : 190 & 260 25
Belang R 150 : 110 

p/s:maybe ada beberapa carb yg kurang tepat mj & pj nya


Saiz Mainjet & Pilotjet Dipasaran

Saiz Pilot Dipasaran : die akan naik 2.5# (cth : 22.5,25.0,27.5,30.0)

Saiz Mainjet Dipasaran : die akan naik 5# (cth : 80,85,90,95)

*ni utk carb wave100,wave125,ts,kriss, dll.tp ada yg dijual tk ikot saiz ni,ikot carb jgk.*

sumber:http://eastbiker.blogspot.com/2010/06/setting-karburator-cara-mudah.html

http://malaysianbikers.com.my/forum/index.php/topic,78062.0.html

TAKING CARE OF YOUR MOTORBIKE

Go out on your own terms. That's how you want to decide it's time to trade in your old bike for a new one—not while you're suddenly stranded on the side of I-Something with (pick one):

1. A munched valve train
2. A locked tranny
3. A blown wheel bearing
4. A dead charging system, or
5. Any combination of the above

Of course, bad stuff like that can happen, but it doesn't have to. In fact, if you treat your bike right, you can considerably reduce the wear and tear that makes new bikes into old bikes—or opens the door for catastrophic failure.
The secret? A sensible, 12-step maintenance program.
Here's how to make sure you get tired of your bike before it tires of you.

Your 12 step maintenance program

Expand all Collapse all

• 1. Follow the recommendations in your manuals

  It may be hard to admit, but—believe it or not—the original manufacturer probably knows more about your motorcycle than you do.
  Luckily, factory engineers are happy to share much of what they know about your bike in your owners manual. It will advise you on oil type, maintenance schedules, service procedures and more. Read it, study it, memorize it.
  In many cases—especially if you plan to do more sophisticated maintenance—you'll also want a full-on service manual. The service manual generally includes everything a shop mechanic needs to know to rebuild every part of your motorcycle, plus stuff like hard-to-find torque values for every bolt on your bike.
  A factory service manual might cost $40 to $100 or more. Cheaper options might include a shop manual from a third-party publisher, such as Clymer or Haynes.

• 2. Break it in right

  The most critical miles of your motorcycle's life are the first few hundred, then the next couple thousand. If you don't treat your bike right during these early stages, you could regret it later.
  Each bike comes with its own list of guidelines to follow for break-in. Some boil down to, "Ride it gently," while others can be complex programs that involve limits on maximum RPMs for a certain number of miles.
  Some bikes even call for one type of oil to be used for break-in, and another after that.
  Where do you find this information? Your manual.

• 3. Change the oil

  You hear it all the time: Scheduled oil changes—of the right oil—are the best way to make your engine last.
  That's because it's true.
  Every motorcycle engine has lots of hard parts that whirl around at frenetic speeds. And the only thing that keeps them from grinding themselves into metal filings is a thin layer of quality oil. When oil breaks down, it can't do a quality job.
  So change it often, according to the manufacturer's recommended schedule—or even more often if you ride in dirty or dusty environments.
  What kind of oil should you use? That can be a heated question, particularly if you frequent many enthusiast websites, where you can encounter a dizzying array of recommendations about what viscosity, specification (car or motorcycle) or type (conventional or synthetic) of motor oil is best.
  Your best bet? Check your owners manual.

• 4. Clean the air filter

  What goes in your motorcycle doesn't always come out. And a lot of what goes in passes through your air filter.
  That means if your air filter isn't clean, or, in some cases, properly oiled, you could be cutting off airflow to the cylinders and even allowing in foreign abrasives (dirt, dust or worse), where they can grind away at your valves, internal bearings and cylinders.
  So do yourself a favor. When it comes to air-filter maintenance, follow the recommended schedule as a minimum. And if you ride in particularly dusty or dirty environments, clean or replace the filter more often. often.

• 5. Air up

  Running the wrong air pressure in your motorcycle tires can negatively affect everything from fuel mileage to handling. It's not only wasteful, it's downright dangerous.
  By maintaining the correct air pressure in your tires (check it once a week with a reliable gauge), they will last longer. And considering they are your bike's sole connection to Mother Earth, the rest of your bike will thank you, too.

• 6. Keep your bearings

  The rule here is simple: Grease your bearings.
  New dirtbike buyers pick up this habit early, since many motocross bikes roll off the showroom floor already needing a healthy slathering of grease in areas such as the steering-head bearings and suspension linkages. But street riders need to keep their bikes lubricated, too. While the sealed bearings on modern streetbikes are relatively maintenance free, exposed areas such as suspension linkages need routine care.
  Even if you grease religiously, the time will come when you'll have to replace key bearings. So check them periodically.
  You can test your steering stem bearings by raising the front wheel off the ground with a stand. If you feel any notchiness when you turn the handlebars, or notice any play when you push on the fork back and forth, replace the bearings.
  Likewise, if you feel any play around the front or rear axle, the wheel bearings need to be replaced immediately.
  Another critical pivot point is the swingarm. It shouldn't move side-to-side.
  The scary thing about bearings is that when they start to go, they go fast—sometimes with catastrophic results. Never put off replacing a bad bearing.
  Also in the lubrication category, many bolts benefit from a bit of anti-seize coating when re-installed. Examples include the axles, swingarm bolt, linkage bolts and motor-mount bolts.

• 7. Watch your drivetrain

  Fresh oil and a clean air filter generally will keep your engine and transmission running right, but that's only two-thirds of your bike's mechanical make-up.
  The rest is the drivetrain—the chain, belt or shaft that transfers power from your transmission to your rear wheel.
  Depending on what type of final drivetrain you're running, you'll want to keep an eye on chain stretch, sprocket wear, belt cracking, or the condition and amount of oil in the shaft housing.
  Chain drive systems generally are the most maintenance-intensive, although if you run a sealed chain (O-ring or some variation) and don't run aluminum sprockets (which are light, but wear relatively fast), you'll probably find a periodic minor adjustment is all you need.

• 8. Protect your charge

  A new battery starts dying the second you use it. However, its life can be a long one if you keep it and your charging system in good shape.
  The best thing to do to extend battery life is to keep it charged during downtime, preferably with a trickle charger.
  The other major issue with batteries is letting the electrolyte solution get too low. Low levels expose the internal plates, reducing capacity and increasing heat.
  If you can, eliminate this problem with a sealed, maintenance-free battery.

• 9. Look for quality

  Every one of us enjoys tricking out our motorcycles, adding this or that to change performance, up the style factor or otherwise make it our own.
  However, when considering aftermarket parts, evaluate whether they have at least the same workmanship standards of original equipment. If not, they may not last as long.
  Bottom line: Choose your bling wisely.

• 10. Check, please

  If it works for airplane pilots, it can work for you.
  We mean, of course, going through a pre-ride checklist. That's the best way to find little problems before they become big ones.
  Bikes vary (yep, consult your manual), but, generally, you'll want to check: the level of both the motor and transmission oil; tire air pressures; fuel or brake-fluid leaks; bolt tightness; electrical switches and controls.
  If something is wrong, fix it.

• 11. Ride it right

  It may make you feel like a race hero if you power-shift your motorcycle without feathering the clutch or backing off on the throttle, but your transmission will grumble—literally.
  Likewise, braking easy, accelerating steadily and turning smoothly will help lots of parts last longer.
  You can be rough with your bike, but you'll need to be sure you're ready to do more maintenance.

• 12. If it ain't broke...

  Just ride it! Too often, we get anxious to tinker with our pride and joy and start turning wrenches just to scratch that itch.
  Generally, you're better off just enjoying another long ride.
  Which is, after all, the whole point.

amt 1 2014

amt class season 1 2014

hope all pass

 

 

WE ALL ENTERE ADTEC DURING LAST YEAR FOR JUN SESSION ,AS MANY OF 20 PEOPLE FROM PRA DIPLOMA STUDENT S ONLY 16 LEFT,ADDED BY AROUND 7 PEOPLE MORE WE MADE A CLASS OF AMT SESSION 1 2014 AS MANY AS 23 PEOPLE,UNDER ENCIK AQMAL ,WE ALL ARE TRAINED TO BE A FRESH GRADUATED STUDENTS FROM ADTEC.WE HOPE ALL THAT WE MANAGE TO LEARN FROM HERE WILL BE USEFUL FOR US DRUING WORKING TIME AFTER.

I HOPE ALL OF US WILL STRIVE FURTHER TO GAIN OUR HOPE.I HOPE THAT I WILL MANAGE TO GET WORK AFTER I GRADUATED SO THAT I CAN PAY FOR THE FEES AND FOR MY LIVING.

 

 

FLYING SUCCESS AWAITING



cerita 1 may

1 may di pd kebusanan walau pun ada pesta ekzos
busan busan busan pasai tade port nak lepak
sesampai je di pd tiada port nak lepak dan mujur jua walaupun ada roadblock trafik dan jpj namun saya melepasi nya kerana complete.alhamdulillah.di pd arini tiada function kerana teluk kemang digunakan untuk program ape ntah,dan budak2 takde tmpat nak lepak,lagi pun pesta air berlangsung pada keesokkan hari bersamman 2-4 may 2014.sangat busan arini,jadi saya dan rakan rakan mengambil keputusan untuk lepak di tepi pantai sambil makan nasi goring ayam,kami menghayati keindahan alam yang cantik meluas.
selepas itu kami mandi manda di pantai batu 2 port Dickson,tak sempat amik gambar kerana tiada kamera waktu itu

 

 

sebahagian gambar di pd

INTRODUCTION TO BLOGGING USER

name blog adekadektumpanglalu,salam perkenalan kepada semua nama saya Muhammad husni b md yazid anak kedua daripada 4 orang adik beradik,duduk di jelebu negeri Sembilan,asal dari jelebu,
dilahirkan pada 15 01 1995 di hospital jelebu,saya diberi nama husni yang bermaksud baik oleh ibu bapa tercinta.masih mempunyai ibu bapa yang masih bekerja sebagai guru di sekolah berdekatan kawasan perumahan saya,ayah berkhidmat di smk dato undang musa al haj manakala mak pula berkhidmat di sekola kebangsaan undang jelebu.abang masih menunggu tawaran untuk melanjutkan pelajaran di dalam aliran akaun.
adek perempuan bersekolah di smk dato haji mohd said berumur 16 tahun manakala adek lelaki berumur 12 tahun dan bakal menduduki ujian upsr.itu sahaja setakat ni

kerje ari ni

ari selasa kelas computer,buat blog,invalid invalid.done ramai yang sangkut kerana line masalah kot,ntah la tak kesah la yang penting cuba jaya sehingga mampu,saya pun begitu gak susah pas tu try try try dapat gak akhirnya Alhamdulillah,pas tu kne buat 5 posting plak tu aduh aduh,tak byase blogging ni tu yang agak susah siket,last2 bukak goggle carek info ape yang patut post jer la kat sini itu lebih baek kongsi kongsi ilmu dengan rakan rakan semua
semoga ada manfaat di sebalik semua ini